Measure over the underwear you intend to wear with the garment, with the tape snug against the body but never pulled tight.
The measurements that choose the size. Full bust, taken around the fullest part with the tape level at the back. High bust, taken above the bust and under the arms. Waist, at the natural crease when you bend sideways — not where trousers sit. Hip, at the fullest point, usually 20 to 22 cm below the waist.
The measurements that drive adjustments. Back waist length, from the bone at the base of the neck to the waist. Shoulder to bust point. Arm length with the elbow slightly bent. Inside leg. Height.
Choose the size from the pattern’s own chart, never from your ready-to-wear size. Pattern sizing and shop sizing are unrelated systems, and the number on a pattern envelope is usually several sizes larger than the one on a shop label. Ignore the number entirely and read across the chart.
Practical points. Get someone else to measure you if you can — measuring your own back accurately is close to impossible. Keep the tape level all the way round; the commonest error is a tape that dips at the back and adds several centimetres. Tie a length of narrow elastic round your middle and let it settle to find the true waist.
Write everything down with the date, and remeasure every few months. Bodies change, and a size chosen from year-old numbers is a fit problem you built in before cutting.
Questions people actually ask
Should I measure over clothes?
No, other than the underwear you will wear with the garment. A layer of clothing adds enough to push you into the wrong size.
Which bust measurement matters most?
For anything with a shoulder or an armhole, the high bust, because it reflects the frame. Fit the shoulders from that and adjust the bust separately.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11