How do I embroider on towels?

Towelling is a pile fabric, so the problem is stitches sinking into the loops — a water-soluble topping on the surface is the answer.

Topping on the surface, always. Lay a sheet of water-soluble film over the towel inside the hoop and stitch through it. It holds the pile down so the stitches sit on top rather than disappearing between the loops. Without it, lettering and fine detail vanish. Rinse or tear the film away afterwards, and dab the remaining fragments with a damp cloth.

Stabiliser underneath. A firm tear-away is adequate for most towelling. Use a cut-away on stretchy or loosely woven towelling, and consider two layers on a heavy bath sheet.

Hoop the towel itself where the size allows, taut and square. On thick towelling, hooping is easier if you hoop the stabiliser and float the towel on top, secured with basting stitches around the design area — most machines have a basting box function for exactly this.

Choose a design with solid underlay. Designs sold for towels have extra underlay stitching that flattens the pile before the top stitches go on. A light open design on towelling looks thin.

Needle and thread. A 75/11 or 90/14 embroidery needle depending on weight, and polyester thread — towels are washed hot and often.

Trim the pile that pokes through the finished stitching with small sharp scissors.

Place it on the border band where there is one; it is flatter, stabler and where towel motifs conventionally sit.