A lining is a second garment, assembled separately and joined to the first at the edges. The two rules are that it must be slightly larger than the outer, and that it must not be attached at the hem.
Cut it fuller. The lining sits inside a curve, so it needs more length and width, not less. Most patterns build this in; if you are drafting it, add 3 to 5 mm at the centre back and at the shoulders. A lining cut identically to the outer will pull the garment out of shape.
Assemble it completely and separately, with the same darts and shaping. Press the seams towards the back rather than open — it is quicker and it lies flat inside.
Join at the neckline and the front edges, right sides together, then turn through. Understitch wherever you can reach so the lining rolls to the inside.
Leave a wearing pleat. At the centre back, fold a pleat of 20 to 30 mm and secure it at the neck and hem. It gives the wearer room to move without straining the outer fabric.
Hem the two separately. The lining hem is finished on its own and sits 20 to 25 mm shorter than the garment hem, joined only with a few thread bars or a loose hand stitch. Attaching them together makes the garment hang badly and pull at the hem.
Fabric. Something smooth and slippery so the garment slides on. Cupro, viscose, acetate and polyester lining all work; check the care requirements match the outer fabric.
Questions people actually ask
How much shorter should the lining be?
Around 20 to 25 mm at the hem, hemmed separately and joined loosely with thread bars.
My lining pulls the garment up.
It was cut too small, or the hems were joined. Add ease at the back and centre front, and free the hems.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11