How do I set up a sewing space?

Four things decide whether a sewing space works: table height, light, a cutting surface and how far you have to walk to the iron.

A solid table. A machine on a flexing table vibrates, walks and stitches unevenly. Sturdiness matters more than size. The bed of the machine wants to sit at roughly the height of a desk, with your forearms level when your hands are on the fabric — a table that is too high makes you lift your shoulders, which is where the aching comes from.

Light on the needle, not on your back. The machine light shows the needle area; a separate lamp positioned to the left and slightly forward removes the shadow your hands cast. This is the cheapest improvement most people can make.

A cutting surface at a different height. Cutting on a low table is what hurts backs. A dining table, a kitchen worktop or a board across a bed all work. It does not need to be permanent, but it needs to be big enough for the whole pattern piece.

The iron within reach. Pressing happens dozens of times per garment. If the board is in another room, you will skip it, and skipped pressing is visible in the finished garment.

Then the small things. A bin at your feet for offcuts and thread ends. Power leads routed so the pedal cable is not dragged. And somewhere to leave a half-finished project undisturbed, which is what keeps projects moving.