A dart shapes flat fabric over a curve. Almost all dart problems are at the point.
Mark it accurately. Transfer the dart legs and the point from the pattern. A dart sewn to the wrong length changes where the fullness sits.
Fold right sides together, matching the legs exactly, and pin.
Sew from the wide end towards the point. This matters: sewing towards the point lets you control the taper.
The last few stitches should run along the fold, not angle into it — parallel to and almost on the folded edge. That is what prevents the pucker or nipple at the dart point that everyone recognises.
Do not backstitch at the point. It creates a lump exactly where the fabric needs to be smooth. Leave long tails and tie them, or shorten the stitch to about 1 mm for the last centimetre.
Press it properly. Press the dart flat as sewn first to set the stitches, then press the fold — downwards on a horizontal dart, towards the centre on a vertical one. Press over a tailor’s ham, not flat, so the shape it creates is preserved rather than creased out.
On thick fabric, slash the dart open and press the allowances apart to reduce bulk.
Questions people actually ask
Why does my dart point pucker?
The stitching angled into the fold instead of running along it. The last three or four stitches must be parallel to the fold and almost on it.
Which way do I press a dart?
Vertical darts towards the centre front or back; horizontal darts downwards. That is the convention and it makes the garment hang correctly.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11