A narrow hem is two small folds, so the raw edge is enclosed and the finished hem is 3 to 6 mm deep. It is the right hem for light fabric, curves and anything where a deep hem would look heavy.
The reliable hand method.
One. Sew a line of straight stitching 6 mm from the raw edge. This seems pointless and it is the whole trick — the stitching gives the fold a line to turn on and stops light fabric collapsing.
Two. Press the edge up along that stitching line.
Three. Trim the raw edge back to about 3 mm.
Four. Fold again so the raw edge is enclosed, press, and stitch close to the inner fold.
The faster method: a rolled hem foot. The scrolled channel folds the fabric twice as it feeds. It is quick once you can start it — feed a few centimetres of pre-folded fabric into the scroll, lower the foot, hold the thread tails, and let it feed. Keep a light, even sideways tension on the fabric so the scroll stays full. It takes practice and it is worth having.
Fabric matters. Narrow hems suit lawn, voile, silk, chiffon and shirting. On anything thick the double fold is too bulky to lie flat.
On sheers, stitch over tissue paper and tear it away afterwards.
At corners and seam junctions, trim the seam allowance inside the hem before folding, or the fold will be lumpy at every seam.
Questions people actually ask
My rolled hem foot keeps losing the fabric.
The scroll has emptied. Keep a steady sideways pull so the fabric stays fully in the channel, and never let the edge run out to one side.
Can I do a narrow hem on a curve?
Yes — it is the best hem for a curve, precisely because it is shallow. Sew the guide row first and ease as you fold.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11