A catch stitch is worked backwards — left to right — with the needle pointing right to left, so the thread crosses itself between each stitch. The result is a row of small crosses, and it is the traditional hem stitch in tailoring.
Why it exists. The crossed thread has slack in it. A hem sewn with a straight run of stitching pulls tight and shows as a ridge on the right side, particularly on heavy wool or anything with give. A catch stitch flexes with the fabric.
How to work it. Turn the hem up and finish or press the raw edge. Working left to right, take a tiny bite of the garment fabric, catching only one or two threads so nothing shows on the outside. Move right, take a bite of the hem allowance itself, and continue alternating between the two. Keep the tension loose — the stitches should sit, not pull.
Where it belongs.
Hems in wool, tweed and coating, where invisibility matters and the fabric must not be dragged.
Knit hems sewn by hand, because the stitch stretches.
Holding an interfacing or a facing edge without a hard line of stitching.
Over a raw edge on fabric that frays, where the crossing catches the edge as it goes.
The two mistakes. Taking too big a bite of the garment, which shows through. And pulling the thread tight, which defeats the whole purpose.
Also called a herringbone stitch, since that is what the finished row looks like.
Questions people actually ask
How far apart should the stitches be?
Around 10 mm on most fabric, closer on anything that frays. Even spacing matters more than the exact distance.
Will it show on the right side?
Not if you catch only one or two threads of the garment fabric and keep the thread loose. That is the whole skill.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11