A chain stitch is formed from one thread looping through its own previous loop, rather than locking against a second thread as a lockstitch does. The underside looks like a row of chain links.
Its properties follow from that.
It stretches more than a lockstitch, because the loops can extend. That is why it survives on knitwear and on the seams of stretchy garments.
It uses no bobbin, so an industrial chainstitch machine never stops to reload.
It unravels deliberately. Pull the correct end and the entire row runs out in seconds. This is a feature in one place and a serious weakness everywhere else.
Where you meet it.
The bottom of a bag of animal feed or flour — that is a chain stitch, closed so it can be opened by pulling one thread.
Inside jeans hems and side seams on some brands, where the stretch matters.
The needle rows of a coverstitch, which is a chain stitch family member.
Hand embroidery, where the chain stitch is a basic decorative line worked with a needle and thread.
Can a domestic machine sew one? Almost none can. A few older and specialist machines have a chainstitch attachment or a dedicated bobbin case, and a coverstitch machine forms related stitches. For general home sewing you will not need it.
Never use a chain stitch where the end is exposed and might be caught. Secure both ends thoroughly or it will unzip in wear.
Questions people actually ask
Is a chain stitch strong?
In the direction of the seam, yes, and it is more elastic than a lockstitch. Its weakness is that a broken loop propagates along the row.
How do I stop it unravelling?
Cross the ends with another seam, or backstitch a short lockstitch over each end on a conventional machine.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11