You cannot pivot on an overlocker. The blade is cutting continuously and the needle plate has a stitch finger, so stopping and turning distorts the stitch and can cut into the work.
Outside curves. Guide the fabric gently so the cutting line stays a constant distance from the raw edge, turning it with your left hand ahead of the blade rather than steering behind it. Go slowly. Let the blade do the trimming — a curve trimmed evenly stays even.
Inside curves. Straighten the fabric as it approaches the blade, gently opening the curve out flat so the cutting line becomes momentarily straight. Release as it passes. Feed a little at a time.
Outside corners. Sew to the end of the first edge and run straight off, chaining clear. Lift the foot, turn the work, pull the slack chain gently to the back, and start the second edge. That is the standard method and it gives a clean corner.
Inside corners. Cut a small clip into the corner point, then straighten the corner into a flat line as you sew through it. The fabric folds slightly and returns to shape afterwards.
Very tight curves. Disengage the blade and trim by hand first, then overlock the pre-cut edge. This removes the hardest part of the job, which is steering a moving blade.
Practise on scraps of the same fabric before working on a garment. The steering technique is entirely muscle memory and half an hour of scraps is enough.
Leave a long chain at the start and end of every run.
Questions people actually ask
My curve came out scalloped.
The fabric was steered in steps rather than continuously. Slow right down and move your left hand smoothly well ahead of the blade.
Can I overlock a right angle in one pass?
Not cleanly on an outside corner. Chain off, turn, and start again. It takes seconds and it is what gives a square finish.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11