A rolled hem is a narrow overlock stitch that rolls the fabric edge under as it sews. It is the finish on scarf edges, chiffon hems and napkins.
The settings, which vary by machine but follow the same pattern:
Remove the left needle, so you are sewing a three-thread stitch with the right needle only.
Disengage the stitch finger — the small tongue the stitch forms over. On most machines this is a lever or a plate you slide or remove. Without doing this the hem will not roll.
Narrow the stitch width and shorten the stitch length, so the stitches sit close together and pull the edge over.
Increase the upper looper tension slightly, which is what pulls the edge round.
Use woolly nylon in the upper looper. This is the single biggest difference in appearance. Woolly nylon spreads to cover the edge completely; ordinary thread leaves gaps and the fabric shows through.
Test on the actual fabric. Rolled hem settings are fabric-specific — what works on chiffon will not work on cotton lawn. Sew a strip, look at it, adjust.
And trim only a little. Feed the edge so the blade is barely cutting; a rolled hem needs an accurate edge to roll.
Questions people actually ask
My rolled hem has gaps in it.
Use woolly nylon in the upper looper and shorten the stitch length. Those two between them give the dense coverage.
The fabric will not roll.
The stitch finger is still engaged, or the stitch is too wide. Both prevent the edge turning under.
Last reviewed 2026-08-11